Lau Lau Beach
on Saipan Island, C.N.M.I.

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Lau Lau Beach
on Saipan Island, C.N.M.I.

Recommendation:
Excellent beginner or advanced dive. No suitable shallows for intro-diving "pool session" lesson. Undiveable only on rare Autumn days grouped around typhoons. Excellent corals, visibility, macro photo opportunities, and large animal availability.

Lau Lau Beach on other websites: photo gallery at Saipandiver.smugmug.com Shorediving.com saipanscuba.blogspot.com

Notes:
Depths bottom out at 95'/31m. Best diving is at 15 to 60 feet in the sand-filled coral canyons in front of the "sports entrance".
No bathrooms, no phone, no manmade facilities of any kind.  The only manmade improvements here are the posted security guard, the dirt road, the trodden-grass parking lot, and a handful of large concrete blocks meant to inhibit vehicular traffic at the left side of the beach.  A smart diver will therefore bring water, first aid kit, and cell-phone. Your vehicle should be the 4WD all-terrain type or a rugged van, with a good spare tire, power to spare, and lots of gas.  A typical rent-a-car is not capable nor insured for dirt roads like this.  If you have a typical rent-a-car, then go to Obyan Beach or the Grotto instead.If you have trouble walking in surf or on unstable terrain, this is an ideal divesite since both the water and the bottom in the shallow portions near the beach are flatter than dinner plates.

Fun bits: 
This area is home to a dozen clownfish anenomes and a large "basket"-type anenome along the pipe. The canyons in front of the "sports entrance" have a sandy bottom, good viz, overly friendly sargent-major fish, and frequent seaturtles.
Dangerous bit:
The few permanent inhabitants of the left side of Laulau Bay put up the large concrete blocks along the beach, and illegally assume that the beach area beyond is theirs. Rumor has it that the locals will enforce their opinions with bad language and lead hollow-point punctuation. On the other hand, they *do* have a point, that sea turtles lay eggs on this beach and therefore driving on it will kill these increasingly rare animals...so don't drive on the beach.
1) How to dive it:

Getting down there is rough...or was, back when I dove there in the mid- to late-90s.  The dirt road is, or was, long and washed-out, particularly in Autumn. With a little luck and a lot of labor, the road leading to LauLau is paved now.  If you're only as lucky as me, though, you're facing a long rough road made of washed out coral dust.  It's a dirt road made slippery, with large stones and steep steep hills. I've even been there with a government truck that we had to abandon because the cliffside portion we were on was crumbling.
Since the rent-a-car agencies would either laugh or cry if you tried to take a rent-a-car towncar down there, you're best off renting a jeep or tagging along with a diveshop van, a local friend with 4 wheel drive, or the next invading navy.

The remoteness and lack of facilities will cause a good diver to take precautions. Let someone know you'll be there, and roughly when you'll be back. Bring drinking water, a cellphone, a save-a-dive repair kit, and a first aid kit. Check your gas, engine strength, and tires.

Once you get down to the divesite, placed dead-center in the Bay, park in the grassy field in the forest. Don't park on the pebbly beach, or you may be killing unseen turtle-eggs.  Besides, it's a rare vehicle that can get out of the soft pebbly beach sand once the tires have dug in. 

Try to park on the concrete pad under the red van pictured in the map, or at least near the security guard so your valuables won't become someone else's souvenir. 

The guard's mostly there to protect cars and the property within, while you're diving.  He's not, as far as I know, lifeguard-trained.)

Absolutely do not park on the beach, nor walk along the beach to the left past the concrete blocks.

2)

Do your dive briefing on the beach before putting on hot, heavy scuba gear.  Be sure the car's locked as long as it's out of your line-of-sight.

The water's not usually clear enough to see the bottom terrain, but you can at least see the two most popular entry points. These are in shallow ankle-high water 10 meters from shore. With luck, you'll see others making their entries and exits, easing the burden of explaining how it's done. Note that you have the option of doing walk-in, back-roll, or giant-stride entries here, and that the walk out to the entry points is across flat water and a flat, hard, featureless bottom. It's a VERY forgiving, inviting site, except for its extreme lack of manmade conveniences !

Now's a good time to choose your entry point, or . The generally accepted exit point is at the rope, and perhaps it's a good idea for beginners to experience the exit point at the beginning of the dive too, but it's murky and creepy. Open water classes generally enter here, work their way out through the blinding silty murk to a pretty coral wall at , and then move off to the flat, silty plain at . Certified divers looking for fun should almost certainly do a giant stride entry at the "sports entrance" , then move outward through overhangs into the sandy-bottomed coral canyons. Fun divers should not use this area for exiting, though-- it's best to exit at .

Good idea to see it twice if you're teaching a SCUBA lesson here, so students get used to its murky rope-road through dark, misty valleys.  If you're just fun-diving, though, use one of the sports entrances to the left of the ropeway.  The sports entrance nearest to the ropeway is the easiest and most direct route to the prettiest, most popular part of LauLau, so let's assume that's your entry point.

3)

Gear up almost fully at the car. Leave your mask in your fin's footpocket (unless it's a prescription lens that you need to see above water), and let the chest-strap on your vest hold the fins (pass the strap through the fins' heelstrap), leaving your hands free. Turn your air on fully, and mostly-inflate your BCD so if you fall, you're cushioned and will float. Be sure your fins are not the barefoot full-foot kind because if you're walking barefoot or fin-footed out to the entry point, it's rough going. Felt-sole "tabi" reef-walker boots are best for most beach diving. Put your weight belt on now, too, and do your buddy-gear-check now before you lock up the car.

Start walking in hot, heavy gear down to the beach.

4)

Show the exit chain and rope to your divebuddies, even if you're going to enter at the Sports Entrance. Explain that the exit will be murky and hand-over-hand along the rope from to .

Entering a t the Sports Entrance, either do a giant-stride entry along the sides, or a walk-in entry at the nearest part. There's a small overhead portion as you twist and turn through the narrow canyons out to the wide room-like sandy-bottomed area.

Entering a t the normal entry/exit point, you'll probably want to have your divers sit down, hold the rope, and slide out and down into the 5m/15-foot-deep murky valley. Warn your group to stay together and stay on that rope-- it's too easy to get lost and disoriented in that area. If the rope is missing, please notify the local pro diveshop association.

5)

If you're in a small, high-quality open water dive lesson, your instructor will probably bring you to but you may be distracted by fun divers, sargent-major fish hoping to be fed, and seaturtles flying by. Also, it's difficult or impossible to drag a dive float through the narrow canyons from the sports entrance out to . Most open water instructors will instead opt to drag a dive float out to the slightly silty, boring, safe plains at .

Fun divers, night divers, and photographers should play in the valley at , in clown-town, and in the deeper areas below . Off to the left is also very attractive, with abundant candlestick corals and living spider shells. Divers here will often see big life: Napoleon wrasses, turtles, eagle rays, and at night, safe reef sharks and cuttlefish. Beware of frequent scorpion fish.

6)

Any dive should probably end with a trip beachward along the pipe . Along the pipe you'll see a large, photogenic basket anenome. Your goal is the pretty coral wall at , which is frequented by large schools of unicorn surgeonfish and other schooling fish. Use the rope and stay with your group from to .

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These divesite descriptions are not intended to be a complete substitute for local diveguides, local orientation by experienced professionals, or your own good sense & caution.   Please remember that dive sites do change over time, & daily variations in weather can cause extreme changes in currents, waves, and surf.  Whenever possible, consult with divers who are exiting a site as you enter, and seriously consider the value of consulting with local professionals whenever using a divesite for the first time.  Please use these divesite descriptions to help plan your dive trips, help decide which sites would be the most suitable for you, and to enhance your enjoyment of the dives. 

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This page last updated 2009.12.30